Great Smoky Mountains National Park

When I first booked this trip, I was really excited to check out the most visited National Park in the U.S. and to hopefully see a little fall color change of the trees.  A few days before I was to leave for the trip, I started to wonder if I should change my plans as there have been wildfires in the area and I did not know how much that would affect the air quality, plus voluntarily being in the path of a fire is never a good idea.  It turns out I had nothing to worry about as the skies have been clear blue and beautiful during my time here. 

I arrived at the southern entrance through Cherokee territory and weaved my way through the park up to Pigeon Forge, Tennessee where I would make my home for a couple of nights.  There were lots of winding roads with S turns and beautiful tree canopies raining falling leaves onto my car.  There are lots of areas to pull off the road and take in the view safely while giving other cars a chance to pass by and I took advantage of many of them.  I am not exactly sure how many photos I took over the last two days but it was a lot as it seemed every new vista was even more scenic than the last.  Part of the reason I always take so many pictures when trying to capture the beauty of an area is that no matter how beautiful the picture of the area is, it can never compare to seeing the view in person.

On my way up to Pigeon Forge, I decided to stop at Clingmans Dome for a short .5 mile hike to the highest point in Smoky Mountain National Park.  At 6,643 feet you get a beautiful 360 degree view of the area and I was lucky to have a clear day for a full view all around me.  The hike is paved the entire way but it is a steep climb and the high altitude had me winded while going up but they have several benches along the way to rest and let your heart stop pounding from the effort for a few minutes.  Bring your water and take your time enjoying the view at the top.  It was worth the effort.

I woke up early on Wednesday morning to get to the park before dawn and make the loop through Cades Cove to look for animals while the sun was still making its way up.  The early call time made it a success!  I saw lots of dear grazing in the open areas and walking along the side of the road.  There was an early morning fog that created a haze over the mountains and cleared as the minutes marched on.  Cades Cove has an 11 mile loop that you drive through with multiple pull offs at scenic vistas and areas you can pull off to view the wildlife including some wild turkeys I saw but had to walk a little off the path to get a better view.  Cades Cove also has several buildings including old homes and churches that show off some of the history of the area and paint a picture of the life of someone who lived in the area in the late 1800s and early 1900s.

 Beautiful Autumn morning in the Smokys

 Young buck

 This doe was hanging out right alongside the road.

 In love with the bursts of color

 Wild turkey

 Primitive Baptist Church and Cemetery in Cades Cove

 The view was so pretty that I had to pull over and take a picture.

After my two tours of the Cades Cove loop (to catch anything I missed the first go around), I made my way back towards the Sugarland Visitor's Center near Gatlinburg, stopping at Laurel Falls for an "easy" 1.3 mile hike to the falls.  I quote easy because I'm not sure that I agree with that assessment.  Easy to me would be barely breaking a sweat if you are in shape and moderately difficult if you are out of shape.  Maybe I'm in the last category and am in denial at this point.  The hike was worth it though.  Fall is such a magical time, especially for someone from Florida who rarely sees trees changing colors or gets to hear the crunch of leaves under her feet.  The falls themselves were pretty but not overly special however the journey through the trees and overlooking the mountains with bright bursts of colors was definitely worth the hike.

 The first level of the waterfall.

The view on the hike to the waterfall

When I started planning this road trip, my stop in the Smoky Mountains was really just a plan to kill a few days before meeting my friend in Asheville but I am so happy I decided to make this place a part of my destination.  I can understand why it is the most visited National Park in the U.S., it's easily accessible, entrance to the park is free, and it's beauty reasserts itself at every turn of the road. My only disappointment was that I only saw one bear (which the Smokys are famous for) and it was from far away.  Fall is probably not the best time of year to spot the bears so I guess that means I'll just have to make a return trip.

The only bear I saw.  That small black spot in the middle of the frame.

So I bought this bear ear warmer so I could see a bear every time I look in the mirror.  😄

A Gator in Athens, GA

A good old fashioned fall road trip with stops along the way to see good friends is one of the things I have been most looking forward to this fall.  My first stop was Atlanta, Georgia to see my good friend Adrienne who I met 15 years ago when studying abroad in London and have had many good times together since then visiting each other in whichever city one of us happens to live at the time.  The weekend was mostly about catching up with a good friend that I don't get to see as often as I would like to.

Lighted city mural at Ponce City Markey in Atlanta

Stop #2 is Athens, Georgia to see another good friend from graduate school.  She recently moved back here and since I was in the area, I am excited that I get to see her on this trip.  I spent a good part of the day in the Georgia State Botanical Gardens.  Unfortunately the welcome center and all of the buildings are closed on Mondays but the grounds are still open with many paths and trails to explore.  I spent over two hours here just walking around and taking pictures of the changing leaves, flowers, bees, and butterflies in the area.  It is very serene here with not too many people on a random Monday afternoon but the fall weather was perfect and hearing the crunch of leaves under my feet while I walk the trails is not something I often get to hear in Florida.

University of Georgia is, of course, one of the big rivals of my Florida Gators but driving around Athens and the University of Georgia it is interesting how similar both towns feel.  Big, beautiful brick buildings make up both campuses and while Georgia definitely has steeper hills both have lots of trees and greenery throughout the city and campus and no matter where you go there is that college town feel.

After picking up a quick lunch my next stop for the day was the Sandy Creek Nature Park.  Again, Monday is not the best day to go if you want to explore the facilities as they are closed but all the trails are open and there were very few people around when walking on the trails. 

We ate dinner at a place in downtown Athens called The Last Resort and it was hopping considering it was a Monday night... the line must be out the door on weekends.  I had the chicken praline with creamy grits and it was amazing.  I love anything sweet but it also had a little tang from mustard to cut the sweetness and green beans to go with it so you can feel like you are being healthy.

Charming Gruene, TX

Vanessa and I at the Gristmill

I lived and worked in Austin, TX for almost 6 years before deciding to move back to Florida and embark on the traveling physical therapist life.  In my time here I was able to go to several of the small towns and wineries surrounding the area in the hill country but never made it down to the town of Gruene (pronounced Green) located south of Austin between San Marcos and New Braunfels.  So when returning to Austin to visit friends and family, my amazing friend Vanessa and I decided to get out of town for a day and do a little wine tasting at some of the many wineries dotted around the area and ended up in the small, charming town of Gruene for the day. 

Gruene water tower

Our first stop was the winery, Winery on the Gruene, nestled right in the middle of the town and easy walking distance to all the attractions in the town.  They had one of the largest varieties of fruit wines that I have ever seen and seeing as I like my wines light and fruity, it was a perfect stop for me.  My two favorites were the seasonal Cranapple Chardonnay with a light crisp flavor and the super sweet Strawberry Riesling that makes you want to sit outside on the back patio and sip with a good friend over some good conversation.  My suitcase will be flying back a bit heavier with the bottles of wine I intend to tuck in there on the way home.

Just up the street from the winery is the famous Gruene Hall.  It is the oldest continually running dance hall in Texas and still draws some well known names to perform there including the Los Lonely Boys who were performing that evening and Lyle Lovett will be there in a couple of nights.  We ate at the Gristmill restaurant located just behind the hall, known for its big patio overlooking the river and beautiful trees draping along the sitting area.  The onion rings held true to the "Everything's bigger in Texas" idea and the cheeseburger was the perfect thing to enjoy sitting on a patio.  We lucked out with the weather as Texas can get very hot but the beginning of November was cloudy but comfortable and perfect for sitting outside.

 Oldest continually running dance hall in Texas

There are several little shops and an old general store in the town that are fun to walk through with many Texas and lake themed items to purchase.  Our final stop for the day was the Grapevine.  Another winery in town that lets you sample wines from several different Texas vineyard and has great outdoor seating with wine barrels as tables to enjoy your glass of wine and do a little people watching. 

I know charming is an often overused term to describe a town but at the same time it is the perfect word to describe the town of Gruene.  It's small town at its best and I am happy I finally got to spend an afternoon there.  Getting to spend it with a good friend who is always up for a new adventure and can tell what you are thinking with one look was definitely the cherry on top.

Sanibel and Captiva Islands

I realized I have been in Ft. Myers for almost 7 months and have not posted anything about Sanibel and Captiva Islands yet, mostly because it is the obvious place to visit when you come to the area.  You MUST go to Sanibel and at the very least drive along the road in Captiva.  It is generally the destination in the area and the places I had chosen to post about before were lesser knowns gems but just because Sanibel is well known, does not make it any less of a gem.

It costs $6 to drive over the bridge which is pretty cheap considering it transfers you to paradise.  If you are staying here for an extended period of time, then I would suggest hitting the grocery store before crossing over the bridge.  Sanibel has managed to do what a lot of popular places in Florida have not, keep that small Florida charm.  It is not a place to find high rises or high fashion.  It's a laid back island where the nature still over shadows the buildings.  The island is surprisingly large and has a lot to do.  There are great biking pathways all over the island so you can either drive or rent a bicycle to explore the area.

I had been to Sanibel twice before.  Once for the wedding of a good family friend that was one of the most beautiful weddings I have ever attended.  And once when I was a small child and I don't remember anything about it but am reminded regularly that I stepped on a shell, cut my foot, and dad had to carry me all the way back to the hotel.  So flip flops or water shoes are a good idea.

The Sanibel Lighthouse is worth a look.  You cannot go up into it but you can walk around it and the beach there was a nice quiet spot while I was there.  It was great for finding some smaller shells and sitting watching boats pass by.  It is near the pier where you can fish if you want to.

I spent a morning at the Ding Darling Park looking for wild life.  If it is wild life you are interested in then I would suggest going early.  I drove through once early in the morning then again in the afternoon and I saw a lot more wildlife this first time and a lot more human life the second time.  On the first go around, I saw crabs scrambling along piers, a bunny munching on grass, and different birds up close to the road as well as the one thing that I was most looking forward to seeing...roseate spoonbills! 

I have spent many a morning and afternoon at Bowman's Beach on Sanibel Island since being here.  There is plenty of parking for a fee, nice restrooms and after a little walk you arrive at a beautiful beach full of the bounty known as seashells!  Seashells and Sanibel could be synonymous with each other.  It is the thing Sanibel is most known for and have even given the name the Sanibel Stoop for all those people who are stooped over picking up seashells out of the sand and ocean.  The only rule is that if it is still alive then please don't take it off the beach.  If you are lucky a manatee may even swim up while you are in the water.

As you drive onto Captiva, you'll notice that all the homes have names and it is fun to read them and check out some of the more creative names as you drive along.  Captiva also has beautiful beaches that are open to the public but there is very little public parking so it is not easy to get to.  We ate at the Mucky Duck which is right on the beach with an amazing view.  The restaurant is like an old English pub and the food is ok but nothing to write home about, however it is the atmosphere that you come here for.  I also ate at the Bubble Room one night.  It is a very kitshy place with crazy decorations all over the walls and bread that has melted cheese of the top that is delicious.

There are lots of places to eat in Sanibel but the only place I have eaten at was Doc Ford's which has great food and I have returned to the location in Fort Myers Beach several times.  The clam chowder has more clams and good stuff than liquid which is how I judge a good clam chowder.  Their panko crusted fried shrimp are some of the largest and tastiest fried shrimp that I have ever had with a little bit extra crunch to the bite thanks to the panko breading.  Doc Ford's is owned by writer Randy Wayne White and Doc Ford is the main character in many of his books that all take place around southwest Florida, the Caribbean, and South America.  I have read several of them since I have been here and have really enjoyed them all.

I think one of the reasons I had saved Sanibel for last when posting is because it is the destination when you come to the area.  Its beauty is well known and revered throughout Florida and even internationally as you will hear languages from all over Europe and the world when walking down the beach or around town.  My previous posts are great day trips to do around the area but if you really want to spend some time relaxing and enjoying the water and its activities then this is where you want to stay.

Biscayne National Park

How do you explore a National Park that is more than 90% covered by water?  How about gliding over it in a sailboat, sticking your face in it with a snorkel mask, and for your first time ever trying stand up paddle boarding over it.

A beautiful day to explore Biscayne National Park!

I had not been to any of the National Parks in Florida until this year (much to this Floridian's embarrassment) and made it my mission to get to at least a couple of them.  Well, mission accomplished!  I have now visited all three National Parks in Florida in just this year!  I met a friend for the day to take a sailing trip and get to spend some time in the last park on my list.

Biscayne National Park's headquarters is located off of Homestead, FL but the National Park and its waters stretch through Biscayne Bay from Miami down to Key Largo.  The bay is at most 10 feet deep and is home to many sea creatures especially when they are still young as it is a more protected environment.  After being on the sailboat about 20 minutes we spotted a very large hammerhead shark gliding past the boat in the water and not too long later spotted another shark, although I am not sure of the variety.  They were several sea turtles that swam near the boat and many jellyfish floating through the water that, if you are not aware of the pain they can cause, are quite pretty to see.

Our ride for the day

Our first stop was at a sunken shrimp boat to do a little snorkeling.  When a boat sinks, it acts a little like a reef and fish are attracted to it as a safe haven to be able to hide from predators.  I have been lucky enough to snorkel in different parts of the world and the fish were less exciting than other places, but it was still fun to see.  There is a reef as part of the park but we did not go out to it and I think if I ever go again, then I would make it a point to get out to the reef.

Fish photos taken courtesy of Stacy

Our next stop was on Adam's Key.  Unfortunately there was not a lot to see on the key itself other than many no see'ums biting the heck out of us.  When we first docked, there were tons of fish hanging out along the pier.  More than I have ever seen in one place at one time without being inside an aquarium and with different species as well.  My favorite thing about Adam's Key is that I had the opportunity to try stand up paddle boarding for the first time.  I was a little nervous if I would be able to stand up ok but it was a success!  The hardest part was trying to paddle against the current which kept pushing me towards the mangrove trees and the hungry jaws of the no see'ums. Once I was able to stand up and get away from the trees, it was fun to paddle around and look down into the sea grass.  It is definitely a work out.  My legs are a little sore today and I may have a little fear of the sound of a passing boat and the waves that they create but it was a good experience and I am eager to try it again.

Lots of fish hanging out by the dock

The view from my paddle board

We tried to do a some sailing on the way back but sadly the wind was not cooperating to get us in the direction we wanted to go.  It was nice to relax on the boat and enjoy the peaceful surroundings as we slowly motored back to shore.  There is something about being on the water that is always so calming.  In the distance we could see the city of Miami and it is interesting to think of the bustling city in contrast to the serene nature right at its back door.

Miami in the distance

Day Trip to Sarasota and the Ringling Museum

I lived in Bradenton (just north of Sarasota) for 3.5 years and like most locals who know the attractions will always be there and don't feel the urgency to go explore now, I never actually made it to the Ringling Museum before I moved away.  I decided to combine it with a trip to see my friend and mentor who I hadn't seen in almost 7 years and drove the hour and 40 minutes from where I live in Ft. Myers to check out the museum, home, and beautiful grounds of John and Mabel Ringling.

John Ringling is one of the Ringling Brothers of circus fame.  He and his wife, Mabel, wintered in Sarasota and thought it would one day become a resort paradise.  Unfortunately, they did not live long enough to see just how right they were!  They bought land along Sarasota Bay and lived in a smaller home on the land before eventually building the very grand Ca d'Zan, which means House of John, on the bay.  The Ringlings had a love of Europe and especially Venice and modeled the home in the architecture and grandiose style that would be found in Venice, Italy. 

The museum is made up of three different buildings.  Two focused on the history of their circus and circus life in general and one dedicated to art with many pieces being from Johns Ringling's personal art collection.  The Ringlings did not have any children and wanted their collections to be gifted to the state of Florida.  Sadly, John Ringling died asset rich but cash poor and had many creditors after him at the time of his death, but the estate still made it to the State and is now run by Florida State University so that the public is able to enjoy the beauty and history of the area.  The entrance to the family home is a separate fee than the museums but to me was definitely worth the extra price.  I have been lucky enough to visit a few homes of the wealthy that were built in and around the 1920s and it is always intriguing to me to see how different life was.  This home did not disappoint.  With beautiful painted ceilings, glass windows specially chosen in colors that matched the styling of the home, ornate furnishings, and sparkling chandeliers, it was as grand as you would hope it to be to match the opulent lifestyle of a wealthy couple in the 1920s.

 The view to the bay through the stained glass windows

Beautiful stained glass windows from the outside

The art museum had collections from John Ringling's personal art collection but also houses art from Asia and different modern art displays as well.  It was nice visiting in September before the rush of high season begins again.  I was able to spend time in many of the exhibits completely by myself like it was my own private tour.  It also has a replica of the famous statue of David in the courtyard surrounded by palm trees and other sculptures in the garden.

Statue of David replica in the courtyard

The circus museum had a miniature replica of what the circus would have looked like when it was all set up.  The attention to detail was amazing with intricately carved people and animals creating a scene of what it would look like if you attended the event when it pulled into town.  There was a room with different interactive circus features including a high wire walk and the top part of a model horse that you can stand on and practice your poses.  Walking around the room, I couldn't help but play circus music over and over again in my head.

The elephants miniatures

 Miniature circus tents

 Anyone dream of being shot out of a cannon?

The train car that the Ringlings lived in while on tour with the circus.

I capped the day off with a quick visit to St. Armand's Circle and met my friend for dinner at what was one of my favorite restaurants in Bradenton Beach when I lived there.  It was a great day to learn something new and reminisce about the old for me.